Heart Me Crochet Coasters

Free Instructions

Sweet, heart-shaped coasters featuring a central textured swirl.

With an on-trend boho vibe these coasters add a fun and decorative touch to living spaces.

A quick, relaxing and satisfying project.

The perfect little thoughtful gift for someone special to make them smile and brighten their day.

Pair with a funky mug, or a cute coffee keep cup.

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This is an original pattern by Farrah Jane Tate. You are welcome to sell products you have made using my patterns; however, I ask that you refer to the exact name of my pattern somewhere in the text of your listing. You may not copy, re-publish, sell, distribute, translate without permission, or claim my photos or patterns as your own in any way. This pattern may not be used in a classroom/workshop setting without my permission. Please note: If you have downloaded this pattern from an unofficial site (other than Ravelry, Love Crafts, Etsy, or my personal blog), this will be an unauthorised version and may not be the most current version. Please visit one of these sites to download an official, version-controlled copy.

Pattern Details

Refer to Appendix A for example project details.

• Skill Level: Intermediate.
• Yarn: DK/8ply/Cat. 3 weight yarn, ~7g/0.25Oz per coaster. Or Worsted/10ply/Cat. 4 weight yarn for larger coaster. Low-pill or non-pill, easy wash fibre (such as cotton, cotton blends, bamboo blends, and certain acrylics).
• Hook: Use yarn label instructions as a guide for selecting hook size. Swatch to determine the optimal hook size for your tension.
• Coaster Size: Varies with weight of chosen yarn. Refer to example projects.
• Gauge: Specific gauge not required.
• Notions: Stitch markers, scissors, darning needle.
• Stitch Terminology: US. Refer to Abbreviations and Special Stitch Instructions.
• Pattern Synopsis: Constructed in the round, beginning with a circular spiral and finishing with rounds that shape the heart.
• Social Media Share: @TheCrochetFix #HeartMeCoasters.

Abbreviations

• ~ = Approximately.
• 3L = Third Loop.
• 3LO = Third Loop Only.
• 4L = Fourth Loop.
• Beg = Beginning.
• BL = Back Loop.
• Ch = Chain.
• DC = Double Crochet.
• DK = Double Knit yarn. Equivalent to an 8ply or light worsted weight yarn (slightly thicker than sport weight and slightly thinner than worsted weight).
• Fin = Finishing.
• FL = Front Loop.
• HDC = Half Double Crochet.
• HTR = Half Treble Crochet. Refer to Special Stitch Instructions.
• Invis Join = Invisible Join. Can be optionally substituted for Sl St, if preferred. Refer to Special Stitches.
• MC = Magic Circle.
• Prev = Previous.
• Rep(s) = Repeat(s).
• Rnd(s) = Round(s).
• SC = Single Crochet.
• Sk = Skip
• Sl St = Slip Stitch.
• St(s) = Stitch(es).
• TR = Treble Crochet. Refer to Special Stitch Instructions.
• WS = Wrong Side.
• Yo = Yarn over (hook).

Special Stitch Instructions

HTR

Yo twice, insert hook through st, yo, pull through a loop (four loops on hook). Yo, pull yarn through first two loops on hook (three loops on hook), yo, pull yarn through all three loops on hook.

Invis Join

Note: Can be substituted with Sl St. Refer also to YouTube video.

Remove loop from hook, insert hook from back to front (through BL and then FL) of st that join is to be made in, return yarn loop to hook, pull loop through st (from front to back). Gently pull yarn end to tighten join.

TR

Yo twice, insert hook through st, yo, pull through a loop (four loops on hook). Yo, pull yarn through first two loops on hook (three loops on hook), yo, pull yarn through first two loops on hook (two loops on hook), yo, pull yarn through both loops on hook.

Pattern Instructions

Notes:

• All rounds should be worked as a continuous spiral.
• Stitch markers can optionally be used to mark the start of each continuous spiral round.
• Stitch increases in spiral rounds are always made in the second stitch of the stitch increase from the previous round.
• [ ] contains a stitch sequence that should be repeated according to the pattern instructions.
• The 3L (to work 3LO sts) is located at the back/WS of the stitch, behind, and approximately parallel with the BL. This is most easily located by slightly folding forwards/ curling over the edge of the circle so that the WS of the circle can be seen (as well as the FL and BL of the stitch). Refer to Appendix B for images of location.
• If tension is loose and gaps appear in the crochet spiral fabric, then all 3LO stitches can instead be made in both 3L + 4L. The 4L is located on the WS beneath the 3L. Refer to Appendix B for images of location.
• Two options are provided for Heart Rnd 2. Try both options with the chosen yarn to determine the best finish.
• A st count follows each rnd instructions in ( ).
• Beg Ch 1/fin Invis Join do not count as a stitch, except where indicated.

Beg Circle

Leaving a beg yarn tail of sufficient length to sew in, make a circle with either MC, or Ch 4 and Sl St into first ch.

Spiral Rnds

Spiral Rnd 1

Ch 1, SC in circle, HDC in circle ten times. If using MC, close the circle. (1 SC, 10 HDC)

Spiral Rnd 2

Note: Make all sts in 3LO of sts from prev rnd.

Sk SC, 2 HDC in next ten sts. (20 HDC)

Spiral Rnd 3

Note: Make all sts in 3LO of sts from prev rnd.

[HDC in next st, 2 HDC in next st] rep ten times in total. (30 HDC)

Spiral Rnd 4

Note: Make all sts in 3LO of sts from prev rnd.

[HDC in next two st, 2 HDC in next st] rep ten times in total. (40 HDC)

Spiral Rnd 5

Note: Make all sts in 3LO of sts from prev rnd.

[HDC in next three st, 2 HDC in next st] rep ten times in total. (50 HDC)

Spiral Completion St Sequence

Note: This st sequence completes/closes the spiral. From this point onwards a st marker is no longer needed. Make all sts in 3LO of sts from prev rnd.

SC in next two st (first and second HDC from Rnd 5), Sl St into next st. (2 SC, 1 Sl St) *

*Note: 50 st will be available for Heart Rnd 1, i.e. 47 HDC from Rnd 5 plus 2 SC and 1 Sl St from Spiral Completion St Sequence.

Heart Rnds

Heart Rnd 1

Note: Make all sts in 3LO of sts from prev rnd.

HDC in next st, DC in next st, 2 DC in next st, 2 HTR in next st, 2 TR in next three sts, HTR in next three sts, DC in next two sts, HDC in next ten sts, DC in next two sts, (DC, HTR, DC) in next st (bottom tip of Heart made), DC in next two sts, HDC in next ten sts, DC in next two sts, HTR in next three sts, 2 TR in next three sts, 2 HTR in next st, 2 DC in next st, DC in next st, HDC in next st, Sl St into next st. (22 HDC, 16 DC, 11 HTR, 12 TR, 1 Sl St)

Heart Rnd 2A – Narrow

Note: Make all sts (except fin Invis Join) in 3LO of sts from prev rnd.

Sk next st, HDC in next 29 sts, (HDC, DC, HDC) in next st (bottom tip of Heart made), HDC in next 29 sts, sk next st, Invis join into next Sl St from prev rnd. (60 HDC, 1 DC)

OR Heart Rnd 2B – Less Narrow

Note: Make all sts (except fin Invis Join) in 3LO of sts from prev rnd.

Sk next st, HDC in next three sts, [2 HDC in next st, HDC in next st] rep four times in total, HDC in next 18 sts, (HDC, DC, HDC) in next st (bottom tip of Heart made), HDC in next 18 sts, [HDC in next st, 2 HDC in next st] rep four times in total, HDC in next three sts, sk next st, Invis join into next Sl St from prev rnd. (68 HDC, 1 DC)

Finishing

Fasten off yarn leaving a yarn tail of sufficient length to sew in.

Sew in yarn ends securely on WS of coaster.

Pattern Support

Available via thecrochetfix Facebook group.

Pattern Versioning

Appendix A: Example Projects

For additional inspiration, refer to Ravelry projects.

Mint

• Yarn: ~7g/0.25Oz of Carnival 8 Ply Acrylic yarn in Mint.
• Hook: 4mm/G.
• Heart Rnd 2: Option A.
• Size: ~11.5cm/4.5in maximum width and ~12cm/4.75in maximum length.

Mixed Pinks

• Yarn: ~7g/0.25Oz of Cleckheaton Country 8 Ply Wool yarn in Pink and Lolly Pink.
• Hook: 4mm/G.
• Heart Rnd 2: Option A.
• Size: ~11.5cm/4.5in maximum width and ~12cm/4.75in maximum length.

Bright Pink

• Yarn: ~5g/<0.25Oz of Style Craft Special DK (8 Ply) Acrylic yarn in Raspberry.
• Hook: 4mm/G.
• Heart Rnd 2: Option B.
• Size: ~11.75cm/4.5in maximum width and ~12cm/4.75in maximum length.

Appendix B: 3L and 4L locations

The 3L and 4L are on the WS of the stitch and are not visible from RS when Rnd 1 crochet circle is lying flat.

These loops can be located by slightly folding forwards the Rnd 1 sts.

The first image below provides a top view of the circle and shows the 3L and 4L. These loops have been loosened with a crochet hook to make them more visible.  If working in 3LO (or 3L + 4L) for the first time the loops can optionally be loosed for all stitches in the round first, before working into these loops.