Sweet coasters that bring that Boho vibe to your favourite reading nook, table, or outdoor setting. Perfect for gifting in a set of 4, 6, or 8, stacked and then tied with ribbon and sweet gift tag.
A great little stash buster, these coasters are a quick and satisfying make.
This is an original pattern by Farrah Jane Tate. You are welcome to sell products you have made using my patterns; however, I ask that you refer to the exact name of my pattern somewhere in the text of your listing. You may not copy, re-publish, sell, distribute, translate without permission, or claim my photos or patterns as your own in any way. Please note: If you have downloaded this pattern from a site other than Ravelry, Love Crafts, Etsy, or my personal blog, you may not have the most current version. Please visit one of these sites to download an official, version-controlled copy.
- DK/8 ply/Cat. 3 weight or Worsted/ 10ply/Cat. 4 weight.
- Any anti-pill fibre that washes well.
- ~10-15g/0.4-0.5oz of yarn per coaster.
- Use yarn label instructions as a guide for selecting hook size.
- Swatch to determine the optimal hook size for your tension.
- Varies with weight and brand of chosen yarn, chosen hook and personal tension.
- (From point to point) ~12cm/4.75in in DK and ~17cm/6.75in in Worsted.
- Refer to Abbreviations and Special Stitch Instructions.
- Specific gauge not required/not important for this item.
- Coasters are constructed in the round, commencing with a circle.
- Rounds 1 to 5 are constructed as a continuous spiral, with rounds 2 to 5 worked in both the third loop and fourth loop of each stitch from the previous round.
- Round 6 constructs a hexagon.
- Round 7 constructs the picot star points.
Social Media Share:
- Please tag me @TheCrochetFix and Hash Tag your projects: #BohoStarburstCoasters
- 3L = 3rd Loop. To locate the 3rd Loop, fold over the edge of the circle forwards slightly to reveal the reverse side. The 3rd Loop is located just below and almost parallel to the Back Loop.
- 4L = 4th Loop. To locate the 4th Loop, fold over the edge of the circle forwards slightly to reveal the reverse side. It is located just below and parallel to the 3rd Loop.
- 3L+4L = 3rd Loop and 4th Loop. St should be worked in both loops together, inserting the hook first through 3L and then through 4L. Refer also to Appendix 1.
- 3LO = 3rd Loop Only.
- Beg = Beginning.
- Ch = Chain.
- DC = Double Crochet.
- DCStndSt = Double Crochet Standing Stitch. Refer to Special Stitch Instructions. (Ch 1, SC, Ch 2), or any other chainless DC can be substituted for this st.
- Fin = Finishing.
- FLO = Front Loop only.
- HDC = Half Double Crochet
- HTR = Half Triple Crochet Stitch. Refer to Special Stitch Instructions.
- MC = Magic Circle.
- SC = Single Crochet.
- Sp = Space.
- Sk = Skip.
- Sl St = Slip Stitch.
- St = Stitch.
- TR = Triple Crochet Stitch. Refer to Special Stitch Instructions.
- TR-Pct = Triple Crochet Stitch with Picot. Refer to Special Stitch Instructions.
Special Stitch Instructions
Ch 1, SC in first st, Ch 1, SC in FLO of SC that was just made.
Yarn over hook twice, insert hook through st, yarn over hook, pull through a loop, yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook (three loops remaining), yarn over hook, pull through remaining three loops on hook.
Yarn over hook twice, insert hook through st, yarn over hook, pull through a loop, yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook (three loops remaining), yarn over hook, pull through two loops on hook (two loops remaining), yarn over hook, pull through remaining two loops on hook.
TR (as above), Ch 4, Sl St into TR (inserting hook from back to front, through both back and front loop of St).
- If your tension is tight then 3LO can be substituted for 3L+4L in pattern instructions.
- Work Rounds 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and Close Spiral in a continuous spiral.
- Optionally use a st marker to mark the start of each of the spiral rounds 2 to 5.
- Beg Ch 1 and beg Sl St do not count as a st for st count purposes.
- Fin Sl St does not count as a st for st count purposes, unless otherwise indicated.
- DCStndSt counts as a DC for st count purposes.
- * * represents a st sequence that is to be repeated the number of times specified by the pattern instructions.
- St count is provided in brackets () following the instructions for each round.
Leaving a beg yarn tail of ~7-10cm/~2.8-3.9in, make a circle either with MC, or Ch 3-4 and Sl St into first Ch.
Round 1 – Spiral Commencement
Ch 1, SC over circle, HDC over circle ten times. (1 SC, 10 HDC)
Round 2 – Spiral
Sk SC, 2 HDC in 3L+4L of each of the next ten st. (20 HDC)
Round 3 – Spiral
*HDC in 3L+4L of next st, 2 HDC in 3L+4L of next st* ten times in total. (30 HDC)
Round 4 – Spiral
*HDC in 3L+4L of each of next two st, 2 HDC in 3L+4L of next st* ten times in total. (40 HDC)
Round 5 – Spiral
*HDC in 3L+4L of each of the next three st, 2 HDC in 3L+4L of next st* ten times in total. (50 HDC)
Note: This st sequence completes/closes the spiral, in preparation for Round 6 decagon construction. From this point onwards a st marker is no longer required for construction.
SC in 3L+4L of each of next two st (first and second HDC from Round 5), Sl St in 3L+4L of next St. (2 SC, 1 Sl St)
 47 HDC from Round 5 will also available (in addition to the 2 SC and Sl St) for Round 6 construction.
Round 6 – Decagon
Sl St into 3L+4L of next st. Ch 1, HDC in 3L+4L of same st, Ch 1, *HDC in 3L+4L of each of the next five st, Ch 1* nine times in total, HDC in 3L+4L of the next st, HDC in 3LO of each of the next three st, Sl St into first HDC. (50 HDC, 10 Ch 1 Sp)
Round 7 – Picot Star
Sl St into first Ch 1 Sp, (DCStndSt, HTR, TR-Pct, TR, HTR, DC) in first Ch 1 Sp (picot star point made), Ch 2, sk next two st, SC in 3L+4L of next st, Ch 2, sk next two st, *(DC, HTR, TR-Pct, TR, HTR, DC) in next Ch 1 Sp (picot star point made), Ch 2, sk next two st, SC in 3L+4L of next st, Ch 2, sk two st* nine times in total, Sl St into DCStndSt. (10 picot star points, 20 Ch 2 Sp, 10 SC)
Fasten off yarn leaving ~7-10cm/~2.8-3.9in yarn tail. Use a darning needle to sew both ends in securely on reverse.
Pattern support is available via the following social media platforms:
- Facebook: thecrochetfix
|0.2||19/01/22||Enhancements from testing.|
Many thanks to the following testers for your efforts in testing this coaster design – your help is most appreciated:
- Shannon Maughan (@crafty.runner on IG, thecraftyrunner on Ravelry)
- Emma-Joy Gilbert (@handmadeonahook on IG and FB, Em-J87 on Ravelry)
- Jade Taylor (@blackholesandunicornscrochet on IG, @blackholesandunicornshandmadeandcrochet on FB, jadektaylor on Ravelry)
- Cathryn – (@burli_makes on IG, Burli on Ravelry)
- Amy Barber – (@lil_aymz on IG, LilAymz on Ravelry)
- Stacie Knox
Appendix 1 – Images: 3L and 4L Location
Image 1: Round 1 has been completed. This is a front view of the open circle. The 3L and 4L are not visible. To access the 3L and 4L, the HDC stitches need to be folded over, forwards.
Image 2: Round 1 has been completed. This is a top view of the open circle, showing the same stitches as for Image 1 but just from the different angle. The 3L will be visible. The 4L is visible in this photo because the crochet hook has been used to loosen this loop. However, the previous round HDC stitches will usually need to be folded over, forwards slightly, to locate the 4L. The 4L lies just below the 3L. You may find it easier to locate and loosen all 3L and 4L from the previous round before working stitches in these for the current round.
Image 3: Round 2 first HDC has been commenced (yarn over and hook inserted through 3L+4L of first HDC from previous round (from front to back)). This is being constructed in the same previous round HDC as the loops are marked for in Image 1 and Image 2.
Image 4: Round 2 first HDC has been completed (in the same HDC from previous round as marked/ shown in Images 1 to 3). Next HDC 3L and 4L is shown (loosened by hook).